Twice Baked Cheese Souffle

A tribute to both my childhood and mother, but since she refuses to part with her unparalleled recipe for a classic souffle, I hereby present one that is not only contemporary but also far more user friendly.

It was at Michel Roux Jr.’s celebrated 2 star Michelin restaurant, Le Gavroche, located in Mayfair London, where I first stumbled upon this dish and was at once intrigued by the idea that a souffle could be twice baked, yet as fully risen and light as the classic single baked one.

I had been invited to dine at le Gavroche by one of my ex-fiances, of which there have been quite a few since I am a notorious ‘runaway bride’, and will never forget how the somewhat stilted atmosphere between us, for I had quite literally abandoned him at the altar, was immediately relieved by a tasting of what Michel Roux calls his ‘souffle suissesse’; in fact, our shared passion for the dish was such that we almost fell head over heels in love with each other again!

What is remarkable about the recipe is that it allows one to not be held hostage by a last minute beating of egg whites, which in the event of the slightest mistake will punish the cook by refusing to let the souffle rise….needless to say, a seasoned and refined hostess will always have a back-up plan and casually shrug off any failure with a winsome smile; a twice baked souffle, however, allows one to get it right well in advance of service time.

There are a multitude of recipes available on the internet, including Michel Roux’s original, but few yield the same rise and degree of aeration as the one I am about to reveal, which is in fact lighter than Roux’s original souffle Suisse, the two principal reasons being a second bake using single cream and use of a less stringy cheese. The one I find works best is Red Leicester, and here is a fool proof recipe …

Above: Red Leicester Cheese

Ingredients

YIELD : 4 to 5 individual souffles

For the first Bake:

40g unsalted butter (any imported brand, not Indian)
40g plain flour
110g grated red Leicester
250ml milk
3 large eggs separated
Pinch nutmeg for bouquet, salt & pepper to taste

For the second Bake:

250g amul single cream (46g per souffle)
75g grated red Leicester (15g per souffle)

Method – Part 1

First & foremost, bring all the ingredients to room temperature (STEP 1) … if it happens to be summertime and you are not fortunate enough to have an airconditioned kitchen, you simply need to work fast.

Lightly butter the 3.5 inch diameter (115ml volume) ramekins (STEP 2). Preheat the oven (convection- bottom heating setting) to 190°C.

Then melt the butter over low heat (STEP 3), add the flour, stir to combine with a wooden spoon and keep stirring for 1 minute to cook out the flour (STEPS 4 & 5).

Then gradually start adding milk and now use a whisk to combine the milk with the flour mixture (STEPS 6 & 7). Whisk each time until fully combined and smooth before adding the next portion of milk and continue to do so until the milk has finished and the mixture is thick and smooth; wait until one bubble appears to prove it has come to a boil, and then remove from the heat and immediately add the grated cheese. Stir quickly with a wooden spoon to combine until the cheese has fully melted into the mix (STEPS 8, 9 & 10).

Then beat the egg whites in a large aluminium or glass bowl on low speed until they reach stiff peak (STEP 11). Set aside and then stir the beaten egg yolks into the cooled cheese mixture until fully incorporated.

Then gradually fold in then egg whites in 3 additions (STEP 12). Taste and season with appropriate amounts of salt, pepper and nutmeg.

Spoon the mixture into ramekins until they are ¾ full (STEP 14), place in a baking dish and pour in boiling water to come up to ⅓ of the ramekin height (STEP 15). Place the baking dish on the centre shelf of the oven and bake for 20 mins. Do not expect a full rise at this stage (STEP 16).

Remove, let cool completely and then run a thin bladed knife around each souffle and turn over onto individual brulee dishes, 5in length x 44.5in width x 1in height (STEPS 17, 18 & 19); it’s really not as hard as it sounds.

Method – Part 2

Preheat the oven (convection – bottom heating setting) to 200°C.

Pour the single cream over each souffle (STEPS 20 & 21), letting it drip naturally down the sides, and top each souffle with the grated cheese (STEP 22). Please note that with Amul cream, it is often separated and therefore you will need to empty each carton into a bowl, before measuring out the quantity per souffle, and lightly stir with a spoon until homogenous; do not beat or whip and therefore thicken the cream.

Step 23: Place the souffle dishes on the centre shelf of the oven and cook for 20 to 25 mins until completely risen, to nearly three times its size, and expanded in width to twice its size. Serve immediately and enjoy the taste, texture & applause.

Testimonial

“The one thing Diya Sethi is not is an impostor. She is the Real Thing – a lady of education and refinement, and a chef who is both trained and talented. I have had the privilege of savouring both her impeccable French and her delicious fare at a dinner party at her home and can testify to both. This cookbook has much to offer to those not similarly blessed. It is replete with instructions and illustrations that will enable the creative imitator to attempt at least a facsimile of what Diya pulls off so brilliantly every time.”

Dr. Shashi Tharoor
Member of Parliament, Thiruvananthapuram Lok Sabha
Author, former diplomat